Graz is the second largest city in Austria, but you wouldn't think that from touring the center of town, the Innere Stadt ('inner city') or Altstadt ('old town'), which is very walkable and very charming. (More on the street view in a different post.)
The major landmark is the Schlossberg ('Schloss' means castle and 'berg' means mountain), a giant rock in the center of the city with a medieval fortress and the famous clock tower on the top. In the photo to the left, you can see the 260 stairs going up the side - when it's not snowy you can hike up the stairs, otherwise there is an elevator that goes up through the rock, and a funicular that can take you directly to the top. On the back side of the Berg, there are pathways that switchback through the forest that aren't quite as steep. These stairs were built/carved by Russian prisoners ('and Austrian pioneers' the sign said, but I'm not sure what that means) from 1914-1918.
Going up the stairs actually feels like going up an elevator, because you rise above the rooftops so quickly. Not only the climbing up the steps but also the view is just breathtaking. This next photo is looking down on the place where the first photo was taken. Notice the long yellow building in both photos, and from the view above you can barely make out the sculpture/fountain with the birds that is in the forefront of the first photo.
The rooftops of Graz! Funnily enough, I took the exact same photo last weekend as I did in December! This is looking southeast. The photo with snow is the more recent. (Notice the grey sky and lack of sun)
More views from the clock tower....
The Rathaus, City Hall, in the Hauptplatz, which is the main square.
Graz is a UNSECSO World Heritage Site and was the Cultural Capital of Europe in 2003, recognized primarily for its architecture - a blend of styles from different eras since the middle ages and from the various regions for which Graz is a crossroads: Germanic, Balkan, Mediterranean.
Like in Salzburg, the fortress on the mountain was a pretty important deal; this one started around the 9th century. Unlike Salzburg, the Graz Schlossberg is not as well preserved as a castle. Walking around the top there are some towers and remains of structures, but it has largely been turned into a beautiful park. Apparently, after Napoleon gained control of it (only after the armistice was signed - the fortress withstood the siege) he demolished a lot of it. And the fortifications built inside the top of the rock aren't open for touring. But there is still plenty to convey a sense of wonder at the history of the Schlossberg and the feats of engineering, such as the well that was drilled through the entire mountain of rock in 1554. (Again, can you even imagine?!)
While not so well preserved as a castle, it is a part of modern Graz life - there is a high-end restaurant on top near the clock tower, with a large deck for summer dining with amazing views. There are a couple of amphitheaters for performances - one sunk into the top of the mountain, the cellar of the original fortress, which is roofless in summer, and one within the mountain at the base. A whole system of tunnels and shelter space was carved into the mountain during WWII, now re-purposed for cultural activities.
A couple more photographs from the top - the 'Friendly Alien' is the Kunsthaus, or art museum, built in 2003 when Graz was the Cultural Capital of Europe.
And the Mur River, which runs through Graz. The Kunsthaus is right across the river from the Schlossberg, just out of view in this photo, and the Altstadt (Old Town) is situated right next to the river. This photo is looking south.
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